Medellín, Colombia
Set in the Aburrá Valley, surrounded by green mountains, Medellín has become one of the more progressive cities in Latin America. The city has a flourishing culinary scene, unique colonial and modern architecture, and a thriving art community.
GENERAL INFO
Recommended stay: 2-4 nights
Currency: Colombian Peso (COP)
Tipping: Not necessary, most round up when paying taxis, vendors, nicer restaurants collect a 10% service charge
Transportation: taxis arranged by hotel or nice restaurant, uber during day
Weather: lows in the 60s and highs in the 80s
STAY
Hotel Charlee
Located in the trendy Parque Lleras neighborhood, Hotel Charlee boasts undisturbed city views from every room. The hotel has a great rooftop pool and design discotheque, drawing a younger crowd, but worth booking for the location and views.
Art Hotel
Located in El Poblado, the Art Hotel features clean, industrial-style accommodations with exposed brick walls and modern art. The hotel is a great pick for its location right by Parque Lleras, a nightlife hotspot.
SEE + DO
Medellín is not the most beautiful city, but the culture, food, and surrounding mountains make it so special. If you choose one cultural activity, I would recommend the Metrocable or Plaza de Botero.
Casa de la Memoría
Located in Bicentenario Park of Medellín, Casa de la Memoría is a museum dedicated to the urban conflict in the region and its victims. Naturally, Colombians aren't proud of this part of their history, so you'll find few recommending the museum. It is a bit grim, but provides of good overview of the city's modern history.
Museo de Antioquia, Plaza de Botero
No visit to Medellín would be complete without a visit to the Museo de Antioquia and Plaza Botero. The collection, housed in the art deco Palacio Municipal, includes pre-Columbian (pre-arrival of Columbus), colonial, and modern works. The highlight of the museum is the 3rd floor, where many of the works of Fernando Botero (the famous Medellín-born artist) are on display.
Metrocable
Medellín's impressive elevated metro system is a wonderful way to see the city from above. These cable cars, which climb both sides of the valley in which Medellín sits, travel deep into the far-flung and formerly difficult-to-reach favelas (shanty towns) that are located in the surrounding hills and have had a measurable social impact on the city.
Parque Lleras
Wander down Via Primavera and nearby Via Provenza near Parque Lleras. Both streets are lined with fun boutiques, bars, and restaurants (always lively, bordeline touristy, but worth visiting!)
EAT + DRINK
The best way to get to know Colombia (and therefore, Medellín) is through the food. Make sure you try the following before leaving:
Bandeja Paisa: the national dish, consisting of red beans, rice, ground beef, chorizo with lime, plantain, arepa, avocado, chicharrón, and sometimes a fried egg on top
Morcilla: blood sausage (if you're adventurous)
Patacones/Tostones: fried green plantains, salty, often served with white cheese
Maduros: fried sweet (ripe) plantains, also often served with white cheese
Chicharrón: fried pork rinds
Sancocho: my personal favorite, chicken soup with corn, green plantains, potatoes, yucca, and cilantro (recipe varies by city)
Ajiaco: chicken soup with corn, scallions, garlic, cilantro, potatoes, and herbs (traditionally from Bogotá)
Aguardiente ("Guaro"): liquor made from sugar cane + flavored with aniseed, unquestionably Colombia's national drink, literal translation is "firewater"
Club Colombia, Águila: Colombia's favorite beers (Jimmy and I prefer Club Colombia gold)
La Gloria de Gloria
La Gloria de Gloria is a casual eatery with (almost) every traditional Colombian dish out there. Come hungry and order the bandeja paisa, chicharrón, and morcilla if you're adventurous. If you're not afraid of fried food and pork you will love it. The restaurant is in the neighborhood of Envigado, bordering Poblado, and is particularly famous for the chicarrón (fried pork rinds).
Hatoviejo
If you want a higher quality of service and a less-local atmosphere, try classic Colombian dishes at Hato Viejo. The Centro location features Pre-Columbian design (wooden beams and a red tile floor), and is right by the Plaza de Botero. Apart from the banedja paisa, I would recommend the empanadas, patacones (fried plantains). It may seem too hot to order soup, but trust me when I say you must try ajiaco or sancocho before leaving the country.
In Situ
In the heart of Medellín's botanic gardens, housed in a minimalist villa, In Situ serves modern dishes with a Colombian twist. Specialties include salmon tartare, racks of smoked pork, and pesto-stuffed chicken. Reservations are encouraged.
Ocio
Ocio is one of Medellín's trendier restaurants, located in the neighborhood of Poblado. The restaurant serves modern appetizers and hearty entrees, and focusing on slow-cooked meats. Star dishes like short ribs and ham hock are cooked for over 12 hours before being crisped under the broiler. Reservations are encouraged.
Carmen
Arguably the best restaurant in Medellín, Carmen is run by a Colombian-American couple trained at the Cordon-Bleu in San Francisco. The food is lighter than your average Colombian meal, and is best described as Californian-Colombian. You can request a table upstairs, downstairs, or in the garden. Advance reservations are highly encouraged.
Son Havana
Son Havana is a Cuban-themed salsa joint in the trendy Laureles neighborhood, with a band playing on Thursday and Saturday nights. Couples of all ages dance in every corner of the small place, which is not fancy, but an amazing environment.